Sansepolcro is known locally as ‘il Borgo’ meaning town and the people living there are referred to as Borghese, I’m going to translate this using my English roots as ‘townies’ but I’ve no doubt there’s a more elegant description. It’s home to a population of around 15,000 – small enough to still feel friendly but big enough to have a vibrant feel to it with plenty of events going on throughout the year.
Sansepolcro has quite the history. It’s the birthplace of world-renowned Renaissance artist Piero della Francesca. His house, in the historic centre of the town, is now a museum, one of several worth visiting. The civic museum is home to several of the painters most famous pieces of art including the Resurrection and is not to be missed.
Towards the end of the Second World War as the German army was retreating north, British troops were sent to liberate Sansepolcro with direct instructions to bombard the town with artillery fire from the surrounding hills to force out any remaining Germans. The officer in charge of this was a young man called Anthony Clarke but a memory of an essay he’d read by Aldous Huxley about the importance of the Resurrection painting made him ignore the order, risking court martial to save the work of art. Luckily for him, the Germans were long gone, and the town and the painting were saved. The mayor invited Anthony Clarke back in 1965 and awarded him a certificate of merit and a street was named after him in his honour.
Another museum worth checking out is The Aboca museum of herbs and health throughout the ages which is fascinating. The building alone is stunning to see and on the ground floor there is a shop where you can buy the products they make. The Aboca company is based in Sansepolcro and produces natural health products sold around the world.
I’ve said before and I’ll say it again, nothing says ‘medieval Tuscan town’ like men in tights and Sansepolcro is home to a band of said men (and a few women in recent years) – the flag throwers or ‘Sbandieratori’ – a highly respected group who have travelled the world to show off their skills and perform locally throughout the year. If you think Halloween isn’t a thing in Italy, wait until you see a troop of zombified drummers and flag throwers parading along the high street ‘il corso’ as it’s known here. The drummers are as crucial as the flag throwers themselves as they create the build-up and help the throwers keep in time. I’m a fan.
There is a fantastic open air swimming pool open from June to September that is a short walk from the centre. For anyone wanting to live in the historic centre of town, it’s a lovey option to have on your doorstep. For wild swimmers, there’s the river close by too with some lovely spots for a dip in the icy cold water.
Foodie heaven – there’s a great selection of restaurants in town ranging from classic pizzerias and Tuscan cuisine to Asian and middle eastern. Most of the restaurants we’ve tried are locally owned with a passion for good quality food and wine. Pizza is a serious conversation with everyone having their personal preference when it comes to booking a table or take out. Whether you appreciate a pizza base made with home produced, ‘mother yeast’, gluten free or with vegan cheese, there’s something for everyone. My current favourite is the pinza.
If pizza is not your thing, grab an outdoor table in one of the bars along ‘il Corso’, for an aperitivo. It’s the perfect position for people watching as everyone goes for their ‘passeggiata’ . It’s an Italian traditional that reminds me of Victorian England when people would go out for a ‘promenade’ – well dressed to see and be seen.
One of the many wonderful things about life here is that it is ‘generation fluid’. On a lovely summers evening you will see teens and twenty somethings, young families and older people all out enjoying a gelato or drink late into the evening. No rolling eyed judgements from people because ‘that baby should be in bed’ and only mild embarrassment from teens when their grandparents stroll by. Whenever visiting friends ask me which restaurants are child-friendly my answer is ‘all of them’ – everyone in Italy loves a baby!
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To avoid missing any of the fantastic events in Sansepolcro check out our guide below.
A rough guide to the yearly events in Sansepolcro
January 6th – now this should really come at the end under Christmas but it’s January so I’m starting with it. The epiphany wasn’t really something I was aware of growing up in a non religious household but now I welcome a public holiday to celebrate the arrival of the 3 Kings. In Sansepolcro they arrive on horseback and join a medieval procession to the Duomo (cathedral) where the priest holds a mass followed by another procession through the town. There’s an artisan market in the main square and mulled wine on offer. It’s also the last chance to enjoy the Christmas lights so it’s always a bittersweet moment for me.
Carnival – (Shrove Tuesday) – Like most towns in Italy, Sansepolcro hosts a carnival celebration with costume competitions and a party in the main piazza. It’s a very local event but huge amounts of fun. They usually hold the event the weekend either before or after Shrove Tuesday.
Springtime – Fiere di Mezza Quaresima – The exact dates are linked to the Easter calendar but for me it always marks the start of Spring time. It is the town fair of all town fairs where you can buy everything from toffee apples to cars, tractors and live stock with a ton of treasures and junk in between. Every year I am amazed at how I have survived this long without the latest kitchen gadget I purchase. It goes on for 4 days and usually by day 3 I have had my fill of street food and am starting to feel worryingly convinced that the knitted Pokemon hat I scoffed at on day 1 is an investment piece worth going back for. On a practical note, if you’re planning on renovating a house, it’s a great time to check out local craftspeople and heating options.
May – Street food – There’s something exciting about walking down a street full of food stalls, checking the menus and deciding what to try. It’s a great time to explore other regions cuisines as well as food from further afield with a paella stand, Greek gyros, Dutch crepes and Irish burgers usually on offer.
Summertime – Every Friday evening throughout the summer months, there is a night market selling vintage items and crafts plus live music or dj sets outside different bars. The atmosphere is vibrant and it’s a fun time to go for an evening stroll.
September – Palio della Balestra – As I’ve mentioned previously in the Anghiari blog, palios aren’t all about horses races in Siena. Some of the best ones I have been to are the ones in smaller towns.
Sansepolcro hosts a crossbow competition that has been going on since 1594. The event runs over a few days with several free events and the main event. There is an evening of entertainment dedicated to the flag throwers who put on a spectacular display. Another evening hosts of crossbow competition between the two sides of Sansepolcro. The side you support depends which of the town gates you live nearest, Porto Fiorentina and Porto Romana.
The main event is the competition against Gubbio. There is a fabulous medieval procession first, followed by displays by the flag throwers from both towns (Sansepolcro are of course the best). I don’t know if it’s my age or just the fact that I really love local life here but despite it going on for hours and being really hot, I honestly love every second of it.
When the winning team is announced there is a prize giving and then, you’ve guessed it, a medieval procession to celebrate.
October – Halloween wasn’t a huge affair when I first moved over here and even though it’s far more popular now, there is one main difference; trick or treating doesn’t really happen door to door, instead children trick or treat ‘Dolcetto o scherzetto’ shops and bars. In Sansepolcro the Corso gets busy at around 5pm with younger children and their parents and gradually as the evening commences the costumes and crowd become livelier. The costumes and make up effects are really impressive but I’m not so keen on the firecrackers that get thrown around.
Christmas – The lights go up at the beginning of December and a quaint Christmas market is set up in the main piazza with lovely stalls selling local delights from alpaca knit gloves to cakes, beers and plants. Santas appear on various forms of transport ranging from Vespas to VW camper vans and there is a wonderfully festive atmosphere. One Christmas a few years ago they put speakers up along the Corso and played Christmas music all day long, it was wonderful but has never been repeated so I suspect that not everyone shared my delight.
New Years Eve – Lots of Restaurants offer New Year’s Eve set dinners followed by fireworks. There’s often a band performing in the main square and lots of friends congregate there to see the new year in. We did just that last year, and met friends for a ‘brindisi’ (toast) – one of the many reasons to love life in a small Tuscan town to stroll into the centre and see so many friendly faces.
(Throughout the year there are also weekly markets selling fresh vegetables and local produce plus a monthly antique/ vintage market)
